Autumn/Winter Report 2009

The eighties influence is everywhere on the High Street and even the designer brands can’t resist. So, it’s confirmed…this is one of the new major trends for autumn. And whether it’s the latest version of structured shoulder pads or oversized pieces, all can be translated for anyone looking for a wardrobe update. But there’s an art to wearing these types of garments, so let me explain.

If you are young or sophisticated and are boy-shaped (straight up and down) and maybe with a chest, the oversized jacket, and/or structured shoulders is the staple this season. Be it sequined, velvet, tailored, it just has to be a modern cut. Designers are clever as every time a trend returns, it has been reworked. This means if you pull out something that you have been keeping from the eighties, it will only look good on your daughter or a young teen.

Fabric and cut is essential for a sophisticated body shape. For a twist, turn up the sleeves and push them up to the elbow, which is a very flattering sleeve length. Team this with a skinny or slim trouser or denim and a simple tank or cami underneath. I find this a perfect smart casual look. For a twist try a fine-whale corduroy or velvet denim-cut trouser. And finish off with a block three inch heel boot if you want to look as if you just lost 10 pounds.

Two of my favourites are from Prada and Reiss in a taupe suede and great neutral tone that will create the perfect finish to any trouser. I love Joseph‘s New Tony style, at £155.00 and the Audrey Hepburn inspired black, taupe or coco brown trousers. They are both high-waisted enough to hold in the tummy and have industrial strength, so they will look good for years. The best shop for larger sizes is Joseph’s in St. John’s Wood (0207) 722-5883 and they are so helpful. For a lesser price point and similar silhouette Jigsaw is doing a slim legging/trouser at £79.00, which is also high-waisted and with a new Head of Design now on board this is a brand to watch.

For everyone else, one oversized, magic, third piece will do the trick. Remember you have to create a slim illusion underneath and allow the third piece to be the major part of your look. If you can pull off leggings...a sophisticated body can only go to a mid calf length.

If you wear full length leggings, you will look as if you have been wearing leggings since the late seventies. Team with a flat or ankle boot, your call. If you can’t bear that as an option, a well cut slim trouser will do the trick (see above) or go the complete 360 degrees and create a leg with an over the knee boot or a 50 denier Wolford tight teamed with a shorter straight skirt. Remember, you are creating a leg so I am not suggesting any mutton dressed as lamb.

Next pick a simple tank, cami or fitted elbow-length top, and you have created a body. Pick whatever magic third piece that makes it work. If you are busty, an asymmetrical oversized cardigan is magic. Just watch the weight, remember bulk will add weight. The finer the gauge of fabric the more it make you look slim, if not skinny. If you need sleeves remember ¾ lengths are the most teamed with an oversized sleeveless cardigan which will be interesting, particularly if you then to be on the warm side.

The wrap dress and sheath remain strong staples. Just remember that any ruching (there is a strong trend on this) can make the parts of your tummy or bottom simply disappear. And yes the body is back...I mean the tops that snap under your crotch. The idea behind this is that as the high-waisted skirt has become a staple, the body top creates a smooth line under the skirt.

One of my favourite coats has to be at Reiss, from their new 1972 range. It is black and white printed hip length and buttons up the front and is slightly trapezoid in shape and has great lapels, so it’s perfect over a slim trouser or straight skirt if you are tall enough to carry it off.

Straight skirts have never looked better and I found some great ones at LK Bennett, Jigsaw, Reiss, Coast, Karen Millen, Max Mara, the list goes on.

Necklaces at Fenwick’s are fabulous and spot on-trend as they are multiples of fine chains. The trend is gold, but silver is best for cooler skin types. They work best if you are not overly endowed. However they are fine chains so it may be worth a try.
Embellishments are also big on trend with zippers on clutches at Whistles, skulls at Alexandra Mc Queen and studs at Warehouse and even on shoes as seen at Faith, Kurt Geiger, and Russell and Bromley. One of my favourite has to be two styles form the KG range. They are just distressed enough so that they will be perfect with any long skirt or tucking in a trouser with. Remember mixing soft and hard pieces is a modern way to dress.

Woman’s trend in fabric and colour are herringbone, black and white check, plum, rustic gold, charcoal, warm reds, burnt orange, taupe. I am still waiting to see shades of brown emerging as it’s a softer option from black which there is a plethora on offer.
Two great new additional offerings have to be Reiss’s 1971 range and Hobbs NW3 range for any young woman going off to university. Both are fresh and spot on trend. Another Hobbs label to check out is their Limited range which is set to be in store in October.

Also in October is the opening of Anthropology from the U.S. on Regent Street and will be s great new destination for fresh fashion from the States. It is a bit eclectic and younger in inspiration. Also Michal Kors from the U.S. has established his flagship store on Bond Street over the last year and his simple silhouettes in beautiful fabrics are pure luxury.

Men’s checks, small black and white stripe shirts, are big on-trend this season and the classic bold check shirts can make fantastic outerwear as shown at All Saints.
Men If you are really serious about how you want your work wear to look, a well cut suit is more an essential then an extravagance. Men in positions of hiring are the best dressed of the day and from that take your cue. Remember the devil is in the detail and that well done will give you perhaps that ice breaking gift.

If you have height on your side, double breasted suits have made a big return, just pay attention to the lapels and don’t let them overpower you if your head is on the smaller side.  Also the waistcoat is still another great option to team with denims or a smart trouser for a more casual look.

Oversized 80’s for men is also news. Check out Unconditional, All Saints, Nicole Farah, and Paul Smith for some great fashion forward cardigan styles.  I have found the man who can from Savile Row solve anyone’s true figure issues who cannot find what they need off the rail. More to come...

Hats for men this autumn are simply the Trilby. Liberty’s and Selfridge have some great selections. Two of my favourite brands are Bailey’s of Hollywood and New York Hat Co.
I am also seeing the return to polo neck tops again that are a bit more fitted as your evening and weekend option teamed with a suit or jacket.

Boots worn over your trousers is also a trend for weekend wear ad this has been on the streets for over a year now so it is now a confirmed trend. If the boots are too much for you, another favourite is Raf Simons for Dr Martin. I understand that he is coming out with some metallic shoes and boots that will be perfect for smarting up any pair of smart denims or trousers for an outing to the pub, date, or evening out. Colours that are strong are charcoal, deep warm browns and plums and deep greens.

Stay warm and go for a shop, you will feel better and as the nights are becoming cooler, some of my options are the perfect solution to looking great, on trend and very autumnal!

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